You have seen it in films, on red carpets, at Chinese New Year celebrations, and across every corner of social media. The high collar. The fitted silhouette. The frog buttons running diagonally across the chest. The slit that begins at the knee and rises with every step.
But what do you call it? Qipao? Cheongsam? And is there actually a difference?
The short answer: they refer to the same garment. The longer answer β the one that explains why both names exist, where this dress actually came from, and why it remains one of the most powerful pieces of clothing in the world β is considerably more interesting.
This is that answer. Browse our full cheongsam collection β
Qipao vs Cheongsam: The Name Explained
The two names come from two different languages describing the same garment.
Qipao (ζθ’) is the Mandarin Chinese name. Literally translated, it means βbanner robeβ β a reference to the Eight Banners (ε «ζ) military system of the Qing dynasty, under which the garment first emerged. This is the name used in mainland China and Taiwan.
Cheongsam (ι·θ‘«) is the Cantonese pronunciation of the same characters β or more precisely, of the characters ι·θ‘«, meaning βlong garment.β This is the name that entered English through Hong Kong and the Cantonese-speaking diaspora, and it remains the more widely recognised term internationally.
βThe qipao is not simply a dress. It is a garment that carries the entire complexity of modern Chinese identity β the negotiation between tradition and modernity, East and West, constraint and liberation.β
β Dr. Antonia Finnane, Professor of History, University of Melbourne, author of Changing Clothes in China
In practice, both names are used interchangeably in English. Fashion brands, museums, and academics use both. Neither is more correct than the other β they simply reflect different linguistic traditions describing the same iconic garment.
A History Worth Knowing
The history of the qipao is more complicated β and more fascinating β than most people realise.
Origins: The Qing Dynasty (1644β1912)
The garment that would become the qipao originated with the Manchu people of northeastern China, who founded the Qing dynasty in 1644. The original Manchu robe β worn by both men and women β was a loose, straight-cut garment with a round collar, narrow sleeves, and side slits for ease of movement on horseback. It was practical, not decorative.
This is important context: the qipao as we know it today is not a Han Chinese garment. It emerged from Manchu dress, was transformed by Han Chinese women in Shanghai, and was then globalised by the Chinese diaspora. It is, from its very origins, a garment of cultural exchange.
The Shanghai Revolution: 1920sβ1940s
The qipao as a fashion statement was born in 1920s Shanghai β one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world at the time. Han Chinese women, particularly educated women and those in the arts, adopted and radically transformed the Manchu robe.
The loose silhouette was replaced with a fitted cut that followed the body. The collar was raised and stiffened. The hem was raised and lowered according to fashion. Western tailoring techniques β darts, structured seams, bias cutting β were incorporated. The result was something entirely new: a garment that was simultaneously Chinese and modern, traditional and avant-garde.
By the 1930s, the qipao was the dominant dress of urban Chinese women across all social classes. Film stars wore it. Politiciansβ wives wore it. Factory workers wore simplified versions of it. It was, briefly, the national dress of China.
βIn 1930s Shanghai, the qipao was not traditional dress β it was the height of modernity. Women who wore it were making a statement about who they were and who they intended to become.β
β Professor Verity Wilson, textile historian, Victoria and Albert Museum
Global Spread: 1950s Onward
When the Peopleβs Republic of China was established in 1949, the qipao fell out of favour on the mainland β its association with bourgeois Shanghai culture made it politically problematic. But it thrived in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and among the Chinese diaspora worldwide.
It was through Hong Kong that the garment entered global consciousness β worn by Suzie Wong in the 1960 film, by flight attendants on Cathay Pacific, by the women of the Hong Kong film industry. The name βcheongsamβ β the Cantonese pronunciation β travelled with it.
What Makes a Qipao a Qipao
Regardless of what you call it, the qipao/cheongsam is defined by a consistent set of design elements:
- Mandarin collar (η«ι’) β the high, stiff collar that frames the neck. This is the most immediately recognisable feature of the garment.
- Frog buttons (ηζ£) β decorative knotted closures, usually running diagonally from the collar across the right chest. The craftsmanship of the frog buttons is often an indicator of the quality of the garment.
- Fitted silhouette β the garment follows the body closely, typically with darts at the bust and waist. This is the key departure from the original loose Manchu robe.
- Side slits (εΌε) β slits at one or both sides of the hem, allowing freedom of movement. The height of the slit varies from modest to dramatic depending on the style.
- Right-side opening β the garment opens on the right side, consistent with the Han Chinese convention of right-lapel dress.
Traditional vs Modern: How the Qipao Has Evolved
The qipao of 2025 is not the qipao of 1935. The garment has continued to evolve, and today it exists across a wide spectrum from strictly traditional to boldly contemporary.
Traditional Qipao
Floor-length or tea-length. Silk or brocade fabric. Hand-stitched frog buttons. Embroidery in auspicious motifs β phoenixes, peonies, dragons, clouds. This is the qipao of formal occasions: weddings, galas, cultural ceremonies. Shop wedding cheongsam β
Modern Qipao
Knee-length or mini. Stretch fabrics that move with the body. Simplified frog buttons or zip closures. Contemporary prints β florals, geometrics, abstract patterns. Shop modern cheongsam β
Prom & Evening Qipao
Floor-length with dramatic slits, embroidered or beaded, in deep jewel tones. Shop prom cheongsam β
Plus Size Qipao
Modern plus-size qipao use stretch fabrics and adjusted proportions to create a look that is both comfortable and striking. Shop plus size cheongsam β
How to Wear a Qipao: A Practical Guide
The qipao is a complete look in itself β it does not need much. The key is restraint.
Footwear: Heeled court shoes or block heels in nude, black, or a colour pulled from the garment. Avoid chunky trainers or casual sandals β they break the line of the silhouette. For modern mini qipao, ankle boots work well.
Jewellery: Jade pieces are the traditional choice β a jade bangle, jade drop earrings, or a jade pendant. Pearl earrings are equally appropriate. Keep it minimal: the garment is the statement.
Hair: An updo β a chignon, a French twist, or a loose bun with decorative pins β exposes the collar and completes the look. Loose hair works for modern styles but can obscure the collar detail on traditional pieces.
Bag: A small clutch or structured mini bag. The qipao silhouette does not accommodate large bags gracefully.
Outerwear: A tailored blazer or a structured coat for cooler weather. Avoid oversized or casual outerwear β it overwhelms the silhouette.
Choosing the Right Qipao for Your Body
- Petite frames β knee-length or mini styles elongate the silhouette. Vertical embroidery patterns and monochrome palettes add height.
- Taller frames β floor-length traditional styles are particularly striking.
- Curvier figures β stretch fabrics and side slits allow comfortable movement. Plus size options available β
- Straighter figures β embroidery and pattern at the bust and hip create the illusion of curves.
When in doubt, size by bust measurement. The collar and chest fit are the most critical β if these are correct, the rest can be adjusted.
Qipao for Every Occasion
Weddings β as a bride, a guest, or a bridesmaid. Wedding cheongsam collection β
Prom & formal events β a genuine alternative to the Western ball gown. Prom cheongsam collection β
Chinese New Year & cultural celebrations β red, gold, and auspicious embroidery motifs.
Everyday modern wear β knee-length in stretch fabric, worn with ankle boots and a blazer. Modern cheongsam collection β
Photography & editorial β the qipao photographs exceptionally well.
Care & Storage
- Dry clean or hand wash in cold water β machine washing damages silk and structured fabrics
- Store hanging to preserve the silhouette β folding creates permanent creases
- Use a garment bag for storage to protect embroidery and delicate fabrics
- Iron on low heat with a pressing cloth β never iron directly on embroidery or frog buttons
- Keep away from direct sunlight to prevent colour fading
The Cultural Question: Who Can Wear a Qipao?
The qipao has been worn by women of all backgrounds for over a century. It was designed in cosmopolitan Shanghai by women who were themselves navigating multiple cultural influences. Wearing a qipao with genuine appreciation and respect for its cultural context is always appropriate.
βThe qipao was never a static cultural artefact. It was always a living garment β adapting, evolving, crossing borders. That is precisely why it has survived.β
β Dr. Wessie Ling, fashion historian, Northumbria University
Find Your Qipao
- Full cheongsam collection β
- Wedding cheongsam β
- Prom & evening cheongsam β
- Plus size cheongsam β
- Menβs cheongsam & male qipao β
Frequently Asked Questions
Is qipao the same as cheongsam?
Yes. Qipao is the Mandarin name; cheongsam is the Cantonese name. Both refer to the same garment β the fitted, high-collared Chinese dress with frog button closures and side slits.
Where did the qipao originate?
The qipao evolved from Manchu robes of the Qing dynasty and was transformed into its modern form by Han Chinese women in 1920s Shanghai.
What is the difference between a traditional and modern qipao?
Traditional qipao are floor-length, made from silk or brocade, with hand-stitched frog buttons and embroidery. Modern qipao are typically knee-length or shorter, made from stretch fabrics, and adapted for everyday wear.
How should a qipao fit?
A qipao should fit closely but not restrict movement. The collar should sit comfortably at the neck without gaping. Size by bust measurement β if between sizes, size up.
Can men wear qipao?
Yes. Male qipao and cheongsam have a long history and are experiencing a revival. Browse menβs cheongsam β
